Arctic Circle Trail Challenge: Tuesday 20th August. Eqalugaarniarfik to Innajuattoq

Hike day 6 Eqalugaarniarfik to Innajuattoq

A beautiful clear day 6. What views.

I awoke at about 6am to the usual mountain hut noises. The Czechs were still sleeping so we made breakfast and packed our packs as quietly as we could. The day started with a steep but enjoyable climb up the mountain directly behind the hut to the north.

What looked like a lake in the valley below the hut is in fact the head of a tidal fjord.

The view from the hut down to the fjord. Looking South West.

The view from the back of the hut to the morning's climb. Looking North.

Some years ago, apparently, there was a hydroelectric project at one of the lakes in the mountains and some of the heavy equipment was landed on the shore of the fjord below us and a bulldozed track was constructed to move heavy machinery from the fjord to the project site. The Paddy Dillon guide refers to the ugly scar left by the bulldozers. As far we saw, this track has, for the most part, become overgrown again. If we didn't know it was there we wouldn't have spotted it. So fear not, it is not the blight that it, perhaps, once was.

Snowcapped peaks to the north
from the hut at Eqalugaarniarfik

The path does cross the old bulldozed track, but it has largely blended back in to the surroundings. The path leads due north and once the summit of the climb is reached the path bends around to the left to face west at which point the path levels out over bare rock before descending slightly past several small lakes. As we skirted around one of the small lake we came across the two Austrian chaps. They had decided not to stay at the hut and instead had pushed on. As they had clearly enjoyed a long lay-in their decision was probably motivated more by a desired to escape Richard's snoring which, by this time, was becoming legendary and was beginning to even attract the somewhat unwanted attention of reindeer, muskox and bears (only joking). The Austrians had camped in a lovely sheltered spot by one of the mountain lakes. We said "hello" and "See you later" and carried on leaving them to have their breakfast.

Near the top of the climb before the lakes.

A short time after the lake where the Austrian's had camped the path descends into a stunning valley with a huge lake around which the path traverses to head in a northerly direction again. To our front were huge rock faces with snowcapped peaks beyond. A truly awe-inspiring view which words and photos simply cannot do justice to. After a short period of skirting around the lake, the path climbs over a low spur of land before dropping down to another stunning lake surrounded by rugged, steep and crumbly looking crags.

Snowcapped mountains to the north.

For what ever reason, I was beginning to experience some pain in my ankles, knees and hips. No matter what I did, I couldn't seem to get comfortable and I resorted to taking a few pain killers to dull the discomfort. These did the trick and after a while the discomfort had gone, but I still felt as though I was running on empty. I think this is where the difference in people taking part in an expedition such as this is highlighted. There is always the temptation to try and go at the speed of the fastest person even though the sensible way is to go at the speed of the slowest. I also hate to impose myself on others so I will happily go hungry until someone else says that they want to stop for food. I need to be more assertive in these situations and stop for food more often as I clearly have the sort of metabolism that needs refuelling often.

Looking back East from near the top of the climb to the lake.
This is above last night's hut.

The small mountain lakes near where the Austrian camped.

We continued on a path that was mostly boggy with a few firm patches. After a few kilometres the path skirted round to the left at the foot of a large spur of land and comes abruptly to a deep fast flowing river which flows out of the lake we have just walked along. We followed the river keeping it on our right until it flowed into another smaller lake which had steep rock faces on its northern shore and a more gently sloping shoreline on its southern side where we were walking. From the shoreline on the southern side of the lake the ground is relatively flat for a few hundred metres before climbing steeply to surrounding ridges and summits. This flat land, which is where were are forced to walk, is a large area of wetland and bog where the path is hardly discernible.

The conditions under food were demanding for the latter part of today as we had to cross a large section of boggy ground so found ourselves ankle deep in icy water for a few kilometres. The valley was incredibly beautiful with crystal clear lakes, pools and rivers. We saw at least eight reindeer including several calves.

Cairn and snowcapped mountains

As we approached the head of the the smaller lake, the path began to ascend again and conditions under foot began to get drier and firmer. The path skirts around the northern edge of another spur of land below which the smaller lake empties via a narrow but steep sided ravine.

As we round the spur to head in a westerly direction again, we can see one of the mountain huts. This location spoils the Arctic Circle Trail hiker by providing you with a choice of two huts to use. The first hut is by far the smaller of the two and is anchored to the rock on top of a small hill overlooking the next valley. We decided to walk a bit further to another hut which is located on the shoreline of the next lake. This is by far the tidiest hut on the trail and the word "hut" just doesn't do it justice.

Looking north. Cairn and mountains.

The hut has a toilet (plastic bag type again just like the others), a large sitting areas which can sleep several people and a separate dorm which can sleep about another ten people in bunk beds. The outlook from the larger of the two huts is simply beautiful. It is built right on the edge of a small lake which has an island. The northern and southern edges of the lake are hemmed in by steep rugged slopes whilst the head of the lake is formed by a low saddle which links the northern and southern slopes.

Looking North West.

We arrived at the hut at about 4.30pm and were joined by the two Austrians just over an hour later and by the Czech and German group at about 6.30pm.

Whilst we still had the hut to ourselves, we were able to have a decent wash in the lake, do some laundry and cook supper. I even tested out the waterproof feature on my camera by trying to take pictures of the usually tame 'minnows' in the lake who didn't seem to be too camera shy.

We chatted to the others and on the recommendation of one the Czechs we decided to set an alarm to wake us up in the early hours in an attempt to see the Northern Lights. I was a bit dubious about this as the sun hardly sets at this time of year so it was doubtful if the sky would get dark enough for the lights to be visible. Anyway, we agreed it was worth a try as it was such a clear evening.

Rocks, snow and mountains.

Before turning in, we gave some of our fuel to the Czechs as they hadn't brought enough and it was looking as though we had brought too much. This lightened the load by about a kilo so it was worth doing. It was also nice to be able to help out some fellow trail hikers.

It is important to note that the area around Sisimiut to the west is famed for its dog sledding and this is perhaps the first location that one is reminded that Sisimiut is getting closer. Around the hut is the evidence of hunting and dog sledding; two very popular pass times for the native Greenlanders.